Kristoffer Szilas

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Cerro Standhart attempt

Posted on December 12, 2012 at 1:35 PM

Jess Roskelly and I made a good attempt at climbing Exocet on Cerro Standhart in Patagonia, but bailed close to the top. High temps caused the crux chimney to flow with water and after spending nearly 2 hours in freezing cold water we were both dangerously hypothermic. We simply had to get out of there as fast as possible and get into the sun and put on some dry clothing. Unfortunately, the sun had moved over to the west side of the mountain by the time we got out of the chimney and our puff jackets were also drenched even through they had been in out packs the whole time.

Being hypothermic and trying to rappel off a Patagonian peak is a bad combination and especially on a descent with lots of rock flakes as we experienced. Our ropes got stuck a few times, resulting in lots of prussiking and cursing. I dropped one of my ice tools, but couldn't care less at the time. Back on the glacier the warm weather had resulted in slushy conditions and I broke right through one of the snow bridges. Fortunately I had chosen a nice crevasse to fall into and only fell 4 metres, while other crevasses seemed almost bottomless.

Overall we had a great adventure and will be back for more next year!

Photos from the trip can be found here:

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