| Posted on May 23, 2010 at 2:44 PM |
I have just returned from a trip to Alaska where Jim Broomhead and I attempted to climb Moontflower Buttress on Mount Hunter. After waiting out bad weather in our tent for over a week we started up the route as the first team of the season. Unfortunately Jim got frostbite in several of his fingers at our first bivy about halfway up the route, so we had to abandon the climb. Anyway it was a fun trip with some fantastic climbing.
Photos from the climb can be found here.
Jim looking at the enormous route awaiting us.
| Posted on March 20, 2010 at 1:11 PM |
| Posted on March 15, 2010 at 6:31 AM |
This weekend Martin Ploug and I climbed the classic “Hydnefossen” in Hemsedal, Norway.

We took the line of least resistance up the middle.

Martin starting up the first pitch.

We had Norwegian company on the route.

Nils Nielsen (guide at www.breogfjell.no) on the last pitch up to the cornice.
| Posted on March 9, 2010 at 4:35 AM |
This weekend Martin Ploug and I climbed the famous Vettisfossen in Utladalen, Norway. It has the highest free fall (275m) of any water fall in Scandinavia and is one of the most difficult ice climbs there in part because it rarely forms, but also because of its wild ice features. We were lucky enough to find the ice formed all the way, so we did a rare repeat of the direct start, which goes through an ice roof where the pillar is broken from the cone.

Steep and funky ice.

Impressive and scary at the same time!

Hanging belay after the first overhanging pitch where the pillar is broken in half.
There is a video of a previous ascent here:
www1.nrk.no/nett-tv/klipp/163997
| Posted on March 3, 2010 at 7:35 AM |
I’m back in Denmark now and have put together a photo gallery from ice climbing in Canada that can be found here: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102048338482894223782/albums/5595125465487200801
It was great experience and it's definitely a place I have to visit again.
I managed to climb the following routes this winter in Canada:
Sea of Vapors WI6
Whiteman Falls WI6
Nemesis WI6
Pilsner Pillar WI6
Weeping Wall central Pillar WI5+
Sorcerer WI5
Carlsberg Column WI5
Louise Falls WI5
The Boyd Mystery M8
Sleek M8
Dumerac M8
Swank M8-
Half 'N' Half M7
No Love M7-