Kristoffer Szilas

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Expedition Reports


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The Nose on El Capitan

Posted on June 12, 2016 at 11:50 PM

The spring season has come to an end for bigwall climbing in Yosemite Valley. I finally got to do the Nose on El Capitan, which is arguably the most famous rock climb in the world. Fortunately, it was every bit as good as its reputation. In many ways it reminded me of the Heckmaier route on the north face of the Eiger by being a complex route up the longest part of the wall with lots of historic pitches, although the former is a pure mixed climb whereas the Nose is a pure rock climb.

T...

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Yosemite Big Walls

Posted on May 10, 2015 at 6:50 PM

My blog wasn’t updated recently, because I haven’t been in the mountains for a while. Since I climbed Fitz Roy a lot has changed in my life. First I moved to California to pursue research at Stanford University, which is obviously very time-consuming. On top of that I became a father and need to spend as much time with my wife and son as I can, when I’m not working. However, I live a short drive from the granite walls of Yosemite National Park, so my focus in climbing has na...

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Supercanaleta - Fitz Roy

Posted on December 16, 2013 at 4:40 PM

I finally managed to summit Fitz Roy in Patagonia, climbing the classic "Supercanaleta" with David Gladwin (UK) and Kim Ladiges from Tasmania. Both of these guys are really solid alpine climbers and it was a great pleasure to climb with them. This mountain has been a project for me on four trips to Patagonia, but due to miserable weather and bad climbing conditions it was not until now that it all came together for a successful ascent. We had a fantastic climb despite it being a really cold d...

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First ascent of the Hypa Zypa Couloir (ED+: AI5+, M6+, 5.10R, A3, 1100m)

Posted on April 13, 2013 at 12:30 AM

From April 5th to 7th Ben Erdmann, Jess Roskelley and I climbed a new route on the Citadel in the Kichatna Range, Alaska. You can find a slide show from the trip HERE.


Our new line follows a series of ice runnels to the le...

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Cerro Standhart attempt

Posted on December 12, 2012 at 1:35 PM

Jess Roskelly and I made a good attempt at climbing Exocet on Cerro Standhart in Patagonia, but bailed close to the top. High temps caused the crux chimney to flow with water and after spending nearly 2 hours in freezing cold water we were both dangerously hypothermic. We simply had to get out of there as f...

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